Stocking the Larder

The grass was wet and the cold wind was still blowing wildly through the tops of the fennel flowers as I ventured out to pick something for breakfast. Has this summer actually been the world’s longest autumn? Have the leaves been doubling up as extra layers for the trees to keep out the chill or as canopies for the persistent rain? It seems like we’ve been waiting for summer to arive until the very last minute. There’s still no sign of it.

Now we head straight into autumn proper and I wonder where were all those long evenings in the garden and balmy late afternoons on the beach? I can count them on one hand. The season is turning before it appeared. I will the broad beans to bulk up before it’s too late. The peas have all blown over.

Back to breakfast; I head to the polytunnel for a courgette, rocket, some basil, a couple of tomatoes and a few green beans. I hear cackling from one of the chickens and go searching for her, she’s hiding in the hedge below a pine branch that was blown off during the summer gales and snuggled in amongst some raggedy nettles with a little cache of eggs. Perfect.

The courgette, beans and tomatoes are sliced and fried in lots of olive oil with garlic, the basil torn over just before spooning out onto a piece of toast topped with rocket, fried egg, toasted pistachio and seeds and a dollop of kimchi. Afterwards a turmeric tea in the garden with precious sunshine. I’ve noticed the blackberries are ripening thick and fast but I’m not ready for them, we’re still using the last of the summer fruit in the bakery and I’m not rushing it away.

Instead I turn my attention to the importance of a well stocked larder, especially as we transition seasons and the glut is over, it feels like shelves full of delicious ingredients are essential. This has come more to the fore this week as I read through Meera Sodha’s beautiful new book, Dinner and I realised my shelves were very much lacking in diversity of flavour and cuisine. Stocking the larder feels comforting, preparing in anticipation of dark, cold nights and hibernation.

Taking a photo of the larder and sharing it feels very personal but let’s take a closer look together, remembering this is reality, not perfection.

The bottom shelf has a basketful of crisps, a favourite snack of the kiddos and mine; I’ve started to ‘charge’ them crisp tax which means they have to share a couple with me from their packet! It also has some flour and sparkling water. The next shelf is devoted to baking ingredients, lots of different flours (gram, spelt, wholemeal, white, cornflour) different sugars, chocolate and other sundries. Obviously my baking shelf is well stocked and it means things like pancakes, cookies, muffins, savoury pastry or my current favourite, farinata are all possible at short notice.

The next shelf houses the dreaded, much maligned cereal selection, oats, rice, plenty of quality tins of tomatoes, baked beans, dried fruit, nuts and seeds. The condiment shelf is totally packed since I got my delivery from sous chef and includes delicious things like sambal, crispy chilli oil, coconut milk and cooking sake. It also holds mum’s strawberry jam, cider vinegar, nut butter, honey, tinned fish, jars of pulses, pasta and poppadoms. Then right at the top it’s pulse and grain central (mung beans, cous cous, lentils, quinoa & peas) with a yummy collection from mainly Hodmedods UK grown delights; the naked barley is my current favourite. I have another cupboard for spices and herbs (though I always prefer fresh herbs if possible) and one for oils and vinegars. I’m hoping that when under time pressure or if there’s lack of fresh ingredients I’ll still be able to cook something nutritious and delicious for the family. Are there stalwarts in your larder? What can’t you live without, or maybe you’ve discovered something recently?

I’m off on a few days break after the hectic summer so instead of next week’s Substack I’ve removed the paywall for the archives and if you feel so inclined you can read all the way back to the beginning in April 2023. Thanks so much for being here as always xxx