There’s no sign of footprints on the beach yet this morning as I tip toe into the water to have a quick swim before work. It’s quiet apart from the squabbling black headed gulls, a dog barking in the distance and the waves breaking on the shore. The light is subdued, the clouds covering the sky in greyness, muting the colour, which adds to the sense of peace, cocooning. I lie on my back; head half immersed in cold Atlantic water and listen to the sound of the ocean.
Calm, Calming, Calmed.
We live in an undeniably beautiful part of the world, some days the views are so smack in the face amazing it’s hard to believe; the colours, the rocks, the sparkling sea. But when the countryside is at its absolute peak, the water is finally a little warmer and the sun is shining, our landscape is not our own.
We have to share. Visitors come from far and wide to explore our coastline, usually travelling from Belfast towards Derry on the famous Causeway Coastal Route. How wonderful it is that people want to visit us, have chosen here to holiday or day trip, to appreciate our gorgeous scenery or marvel at our history, heritage and culture. I welcome them with friendly open arms, we keep an eye out for hitch hikers, we try to place accents, I try and help with itineraries. This influx of beautiful diversity creates a vivacious and addictive energy to our town and surrounds. It’s exciting and exhausting.
There are some real big hitters of attractions here that visitors are obliged to see, as with any destination, the ‘jewels in the crown’. But I often think about how much they’ve missed, or rather lament that they’ve maybe missed the authentic experience, the real North Coast. Those who stay a while longer, dander off the beaten track or connect with locals are the ones who’ll come back again, this place etched into their hearts.
These are the three most popular spots in the area, with my modest suggestions;
The Giants Causeway; the visitor centre will give an insight into the geology and myths and legends, you can also get a guided walk or audio tour but in my humble opinion the absolute best way to appreciate this special place is walking from Dunseverick Castle. The vast area of bizarre volvanic landscape is ever changing and so incredibly beautiful with lots of amazing flora and fauna along the cliffpath. You’ll approach the Causeway with a heightened sense of anticipation, you can either marvel from above or walk down the Shepherds Steps to get onto the stones themselves. I’d suggest packing a picnic, it’s 5 miles and you can leave your car at Dunservick and get the bus back. Alternatively park in Portballintrae and walk along the beach to the cliff path towards the centre, the hotel would be a good spot for a cup of tea or a pint before heading back along the tramway.
Carrick-a-rede; has a special place in my heart, where Dara and I met! Most people park in the car park and take the route to the bridge. If you have a little more time park in the village of Ballintoy, walk along the main street westwards and take the road on the right towards the harbour, then join the path at the corner by the church to the right along the cliffs of Larrybane. Explore the quarry, right down to the water to get a great view of the bridge before joining the main path all the way to the ropebridge. When you loop back round, head up the hill from the car park and keep right back to the village. Both bars in the village do food and great pints. We have our Ursa Minor Minor there too if you fancy hot chocolate or coffee & pastries!
Bushmills Distillery; The oldest liscensed whiskey distillery in the world! A guided tour is really interesting of course but you could just head down to the lovely cosy Bushmills Inn and try some of the famous whiskey in the gas bar followed by delicious cheese toasties at the ever magnificent Maegden. There’s a lovely little bookshop just across the road too, Causeway Books.
In recent years Ballycastle itself has become a much busier place especially in the summer, the beach thronged with people on a good day and the traffic and parking can be a nightmare. For us a trip further afield has to wait until the bakery is quieter, for now we’ve been content touristing locally with a few day trips to places like Castle Ward, Exploris and Downhill. As we hurtle towards the last days of summer, our busiest week awaits. The Lammas Fair, all noise, colour and unhinged exhilaration. There’s an almost audible intake of breath as the town readies and steadies itself for the crowds and mayhem. Before the madness we took the opportunity to disappear to Donegal for a few nights on our anniversary to have a quiet break.
My way of touristing may differ from yours. For me it’s an attempt at immersion, looking for the quieter places, learning some of the language, it’s walking and swimming on beaches or wandering streets with no particular purpose. It’s settling in a cosy pub or restaurant, it’s trying to go with the flow, slow down, it’s even things like noticing the different sunset, the smell of the air, the sounds of the evening and the morning, being barefoot in a different garden, eating street food, visiting markets or trying a local delicacy. For me it’s about exploring, a sense of adventure, appreciating the experience, readjusting our place in the world. Absolute and total wonderment.
What’t your idea of touristing?
Thank you for this piece. I wholeheartedly agree with your definition of touristing and now I really want to go back to your part of the world. I did it the mainstream way a few years ago and now feel as if I missed a lot.
Gorgeous post! If I ever make it back to Ireland, I know *exactly* where to visit! Thank you so much for sharing your glorious North Coast 😊