Right now the hedgerows and hillsides are fierce, bright yellow with Gorse and the woods and glens pungent with the delicious stench of wild garlic.
For a baker/cook, these plants are obvious ingredients and for me using the wild plants at their peak is integral to my style. When I’m out picking; enjoying and showing off the beauty of the countryside is part of the process; how therapeutic it is to be in nature , how perspective-giving big landscapes are. I like to connect the importance of protecting our wild places and the rhythm of the seasons by giving a nod to nature in the finished bake.
So cakes can be environmentalists…OK a bit of a stretch but maybe I’ve planted a little wild seed?
Gorse, or Whin is such a beauty; it represents hope, blooming when other plants haven’t yet flowered, continuing throughout the year and reminding us that there is always light in the dark. When the sun is shining the sweet coconutty fragrance of the flowers is amplified and fills the countryside, total bliss. The roads around us are lined with gorse, I can never resist picking a little handful and often find little dried up flowers in my pockets.
Take your time and be careful; I have a perfectly adapted pinching technique to avoid the extremely spiky, sharp thorns on account of my mum getting us to help pick them in their hundreds for gorse wine and I love watching the children do the same.
A gorse sugar is a great way to capture the hopeful scent and can be used to flavour cakes, biscuits and custards or to sprinkle on desserts. Any wild picking is best on a dry day, with the sun shining (also a little thank you to mother nature can be muttered under your breath).
Gorse custard
If you’ve made a gorse sugar you can use it here otherwise this is another method I use. Pick a good couple of handfuls of flowers and leave on the counter near an open window to allow the opportunity for any little insects to escape.
200ml double cream
350ml milk
120g sugar
6 egg yolks
First infuse the milk with the petals; put the milk and flowers in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer then turn the heat off and leave until cooled, strain and discard the flowers.
Next add the cream to the milk and half of the sugar and put on a medium heat. Whisk the yolks with the remaining sugar until pale. When the cream and milk mixture starts to steam pour half of it over the yolk mixture, stirring all the time then pour it all back into the pan. Continue stirring with a wooden spoon for around 8 minutes, then remove from the heat and let cool or enjoy warm!
Wild Garlic
Wild garlic is the Superstar, one of the most used wild plants on restaurant menus and a favourite for enthusiastic foragers. It’s fairly easy to identify and is a useful, delicious and welcome spring ingredient. Be sure to check out the law on foraging and always be 100% sure you’re picking the right thing, the amazing Clare/Feasting on Weeds has great advice and recipes. A friend of ours owns a field with a glade straight out of ‘Lord of The Rings’ which just happens to be a perfect place for gathering.
I like to use wild garlic stirred through pasta or dhal or made into a garlic butter or oil to use in cooking or for drizzling. But I had been thinking of trying this recipe below and with the longer evenings I can imagine it would make perfect snacking in the garden before dinner, delish.
Wild Garlic bites (terrible name, sorry!)
Half block of halloumi cheese, I love Ballyhubbock Eweloumi.
16 wild garlic leaves
60g Plain Flour
Pinch salt
140ml sparkling water
Neutral oil for frying
Pour oil into a small saucepan, until around 3 cm up the side. Heat on medium high. Meanwhile wash and dry your wild garlic. Chop the halloumi into smallish pieces (I got 16 pieces) then wrap a leaf around it, securing with a cocktail stick. Put the flour and salt in a bowl then slowly whisk in the sparkling water. Check your oil is ready by putting the handle of a wooden spoon in the it. The oil is ready if bubbles are sizzling around the tip. Dip a parcel in the batter then carefully place into the pan. Fry the parcels in batches for around 30 seconds until just starting to turn golden, then drain on a piece of kitchen roll or cloth. A sweet & spicy dip or drizzle of hot honey would be perfect. Enjoy on the doorstep with something chilled.
Next week I’ll be on location in Donegal, probably waxing lyrical about the beautiful North West and suggesting an Air bnb dinner!