Back to food, back to reality

I feel a little rushed this week as I try to squeeze my writing in after dinner while the kids watch SpongeBob Squarepants. I hope it doesn’t read too disjointed…I’ve also had a glass of red!

I thought that old rhyme about magpies only went up to seven but we live and learn. As I approached the brow of the hill my eyes fixed on the avenue of beautiful old beech trees in the estate and I was suddenly drawn to a raucous fuss in the rowan in the hedgerow. It was full of magpies. I chanted out the rhyme ‘one for sorrow, two for joy…’ and wondered what to do when you have seen twelve? Maybe I can have the ‘secret never to be told’ plus the silver?

Turns out twelve is for wealth.

Blue skies and Gorse

This week has certainly felt wealthy, in a way. Full of sunshine and blue skies and therefore good cheer, smiles and time outside; a sort of wellbeing wealth. Mostly in weeks like this where we can feel the changes almost daily; the slightly lighter morning, the longer day, the arrival of blossoming flowers, of greenery, we start to feel like we are emerging. I am delighted to have it happen in such a sudden way where I am immediately appreciative. I feel like I’ve woken up a bit more. I cook, bake and write, I host people, I eat well and I get to do these things daily and I love it. I thank you readers and all the people in my community and beyond that support my work in one way or another.

Of course, some days it feels heavier and too much but as I said to a well-meaning advice giver this week; don’t worry I have a great therapist.

Heavenly cloud shadow

I thought it might be time to shift back around to a bit more food focus, aware that some people follow here for food and have been exposed to a lot more diversity than just recipe suggestions! I have been so happy diving back into experimenting with our diversity of grains in the bakery and wild flavours this week, I want to sing their praises.

This view!

We are fortunate to be able to source a range of grain/flour to work with in the bakery. I hosted a talk for the U3A this week where I spoke about the importance of that basic raw product, something we perhaps very rarely consider, the paper bag at the back of the cupboard. It was with great surprise back in 2013 that I learnt how misled we are, how ignorant we can be when it comes to grain and I’m continually learning and trying to be better informed. The truth is too grim to write about when I’m in such a good mood. Read here instead.

Venus in the evening light

Some say it was grain that settled us, letting us stay put in one place and grow food rather than move around as hunter gatherers. We became farmers. Ceide Fields in Mayo is the oldest known stone wall field formation in the world, we were growing Emmer, Einkorn and Barley 6000 years ago. But what about now? Aside from those who grow for animal feed or for the big breweries and distilleries there are a few pioneering farmers growing grain in Ireland. We know most of them by name and using their flour is an absolute pleasure, it’s a privilege to use grain grown on our land. It’s a level of food security that many of us don’t even think about. At the moment most of my flour comes from Monaghan and Louth, I’m hoping for the return of the Kilkenny legends Oak Forest Mills soon.

Beautiful pastries, using Wholemeal and Sifted Population Wheat, Spelt, Rye and Purple Wheat

I spend time trying to honour these grains, these farmers. Since pastry is my true love and a way to showcase the diversity of flavour I had a little play around and discussed with Lily and Anna in the bakery how we could show off these beautiful pastries alongside other incredible suppliers and produce from our island (and maybe a little further if we can’t get our hands on Irish rhubarb this week!) Using a range of flours and presenting them in sweet and savoury bakes means we can gently open conversation about the importance of supporting local suppliers, using seasonal produce and we are bringing attention to food miles, packaging, waste and the biodiversity in the fields of our island.

Choux pastry made with 100% Irish Flour, filled with rhubarb fool cream, sorrel icing and Gorse sugar

Back out in the countryside the foragers favourite has appeared, wild garlic, and we brace ourselves for the pungent onslaught! This is one of the most incredible ingredients to work with and one I’ve only started to love again following its overuse in early pregnancy and subsequently relating to the nausea I felt. I’m so delighted to be working with it respectfully again, read foraging guidelines here if you’re unsure about picking. In terms of food history we’ve been enjoying wild garlic for centuries and it’s commonly referenced as a flavouring for butter in ancient times. I love the idea of our ancestors potentially making a garlic bread thousands of years ago!

Wild garlic cried out to be used simply, here with fried eggs

Today’s breakfast for one/ Hash brown/ Latke?

One medium Maris piper potato

6 wild garlic leaves, washed and roughly chopped

Big pinch salt and pepper

15g wholemeal flour

Tsp olive oil

Grate the spud and wring it out in a tea towel to remove the starchy water, put in a bowl and mix all the rest of the ingredients together with your hands until it comes together.

Heat a tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan, when hot squish the mixture together in a ball then flatten and add to the pan. Fry until golden brown then flip and fry on the other side until crispy and golden.

I topped mine with a tahini chilli yoghurt, fried egg, sauerkraut and some green tomato chutney. I also felt the need for more greenery so I added the first little leaves of marjoram and ground elder from the garden and some rosemary flowers for prettiness!

This talk of our ancestry, our connection to the past and my clear lamenting of those days was also captured this week by the opening of the Wild Ireland exhibition in our national gallery space at The Ulster Museum. A look at our wildlife past and present in 60 of my dad’s amazing paintings, you must visit if you live on this island and make the trip if you don’t!

Thank you as always for being here x