Adventure in Puglia
God I’m rubbish in the heat, struck down with lethargy when the temperature climbs up above 20. Even worse, I haven’t mastered the art of rest and relaxation so I’m in opposing states of trying to do things and keep busy but being very tired, in other words being totally nonsensical. Imagine, how tough I have it.
We’ve had a week here in beautiful Puglia, a land of dusty roads and olive groves, of vineyards and little whites villages perched on hills, of rocky coasts and very delicious food. For a similar price to a gorgeous week in the beloved west of Ireland we rented a traditional Trulli with a swimming pool and I planned that after our city experiences to try and take it easy and do very little. Our holiday is focussed on soaking up a country, or culture as best we can, usually through food and wandering. I don’t feel the need to have activities or attractions planned for the kids and feel quite strongly that this is a family holiday for everyone, not just for them. That being said there’s a huge amount of negotiating and settling for things simply for the greater good/ to be spared the wrath of the littlest one.
Mainly we lazed about, spending part of the day exploring and the latter half back at the house, by the pool followed by food and wine. It has been a slower pace. People think about food so differently here, there’s so much more respect, knowledge and love, it’s fascinating. It’s so obvious everywhere and yet so totally different to home; where we have to push the fact that things are local and seasonal, when here in Italy there would be no other way. We have so much to relearn. I wonder why food plays such a minor role for some, only fulfilling the need for fuel rather than joy or nourishment. I can’t wait to go into this more with my new classes Soil to Soul, exploring our relationship with food and nature, nurturing health and happiness.
Let me show you some of what I mean, Puglia through food
There are weekly markets in most of the small towns which are dotted around the area and not hugely far from one another, it’s amazing that these little stalls can survive, I wish we had something even a fraction of the size at home. These markets include vegetables, fruits, cheeses, meats, fish and other incredible things like olives, fermented or preserved things, pulses and honey. There are packed with people doing their shopping.
Beautiful olives, we bought a kilo of these and they were poured into a bag with lots of brine, the man selling them gave us all a few for our hands while we walked too. Get the stuff you won’t get at home, globalisation can ruin the special food experiences of the world.
Orecchiette; in every other doorway in Bari there was pasta being made. An amazing sight, rooms full of women rolling pasta late into the night, this is the traditional shape of the region, the ‘little ear’ and is usually served with a tomato sauce and cime di rapa/turnip tops. You will not commonly find any other pasta shape here nor any other pasta dish.
Just look at this beautiful garden in the heart of the town, a sort of community space. How many of these do we have at home? Just not enough! Growing food everywhere for everyone.
I have loved cooking in my little Italian kitchen. Here Peaches and honey from the market, fig leaves from the garden. I know we don’t have the climate or the range of produce at home so it does seem unfair but this little garden has a massive amount of edibles; pomegranates, quince, fig, strawberry tree, lime, herbs and amaranth to name a few. Gardens for growing not mowing.
This is such a dreamy combo, a perfect lunch and offered in many of the local restaurants. Chicory, fave bean purée, burrata and tomatoes…ok and an Aperol spritz. Get the local faves.
The kids were working on a world record attempt of as many pizzas as possible this was my only one in Puglia, with anchovies and cime di rapa.
The local bakery had all the Puglia classics, focaccia Barese, stuffed focaccia and cornetti. Just like many other European countries, the bakery visit is a daily activity. Respect for craft and value.
At a tiny shop by the side of the road, when a visit to the market isn’t possible a shop will have local produce available, as much or as little as you want.
What a beautiful testimony to good food. I definitely find a difference in the food culture in the parts of mainland Europe where we have travelled. The markets were a big hit for us in France - full of local produce and passionate growers. Not only does it provide you with a richer shopping experience, it builds relationship and community. I loved showing my children that way of interacting with food and lament the loss of it here. We have a pretty good market in Sligo. Being in Ireland we don't have all the produce you'd find in sunnier climes, but there's a beautiful woman who sells home-grown flowers, an organic meat van, an egg lady and a pair of bakers who make excellent bread. I find it easier to cook simple food when I'm on holiday and the produce is so fresh. Perhaps that's just a case of re-learning what that can look like here. Thanks for the thought provoking piece xx
Hi Ciara thanks for your piece on Italians and food - personally have been into good food local etc for years - probably like yourself. Very involved at one point in Dublin food coop and founded the good food initiative in Dublin at one stage . But italian food - I agree and as have family married in Italy - wrote a recipe book and touched on the very themes you mentioned . Would love to chat sometime if you ever in Dublin . Love your place in Ballycastle - go as often as I can 😍